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How To Remove A Velvet Drive Transmission

  1. crwsound
    Joined: Apr 2022
    Posts: four
    Likes: 0, Points: 1, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Seattle, WA

    crwsound New Member

    Howdy, I'yard starting to rebuild my 10-18-004, which is a 72C velvet bulldoze with a 1.52:1 reduction gear. I've read a lot about doing this rebuild, and given the symptoms I encountered last year, I believe the reduction gear is fine and I'g not rebuilding that - just everything in the forrard/opposite transmission instance (which I'll phone call the "main gearbox" from now on).

    My question is with the simplest thing (I retrieve), separating the reduction case from the main gearbox. I've pulled all of the bolts that connect the reduction housing to the gearbox, and of grade it won't budge. What I really need to know is - does this just want some PB Blaster and hammer-y encouragement to come apart? Or is there more to it than that, say, taking the gearbox apart from the pump end and in one case I get down deep into the gearbox then I'll be able to release the reduction housing by taking a snap ring off of something? Or is it taking the coupler nut off of the end of the reduction case and and so the housing pulls off and And so I'll be able to release all of the reduction gears from the chief gearbox?

    I read through the "SERIES 10-17 AND x-18 SERVICE INSTRUCTIONS" in the "Velvet Drive Installation Transmission", likewise as other instructions in other manuals, but I couldn't observe an answer to this question.

    Cheers all for any help you lot can offering,
    Chris

    ps. For people that want to know what symptoms I encountered final year: nada leaked, and the trans ran fine in reverse - smooth, tranquility, efficient. It likewise ran fine in forward, BUT information technology was noisy (like a whine made up of grinding sounds) and I didn't want to run it very long or very hard. The transmission fluid, now drained, doesn't smell bad, nor did it become discolored...in other words, I don't think information technology burned. Simply then, I was gingering it in forward. Thanks again.

  2. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
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    Location: Milwaukee, WI

    gonzo Senior Member

    You need to remove the nut at the end showtime.
  3. Barry
    Joined: Mar 2002
    Posts: ane,582
    Likes: 340, Points: 83, Legacy Rep: 158

    Barry Senior Member

    Was in that location any changes done to the drive line before the racket presented itself. Ie cutlass bearing changes, or anything that could have resulted in a misalignment between the shaft and
    transmission? A misalignment tin can brand the transmission extremely noisy. Is there a Vdrive attached?
    You can easily download parts breakup for the transmission and run across if at that place is in fact a prune that is belongings the thing together.
    And there are actual rebuild manual, not service manuals that would help yous through the procedure.
  4. baeckmo
    Joined: Jun 2009
    Posts: 1,320
    Likes: 295, Points: 83, Legacy Rep: 1165
    Location: Sweden

    baeckmo Hydrodynamics

    Start with checking the forward thrust bearing before taking it all apart!
  5. crwsound
    Joined: Apr 2022
    Posts: four
    Likes: 0, Points: 1, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Seattle, WA

    crwsound New Member

    Thanks Gonzo, that's how I was leaning, but I didn't want to accept off anything I didn't accept to.

    Barry, indeed in that location were totally changes washed to the bulldoze line before the noise! The boat was new to me a few years ago with a known diddled engine, and then the get-go thing I did was pull that and rebuild information technology from the block up. Engine runs like a top at present. I did replace the cutlass bearing every bit long as I was working with the drive train, and terminal year I originally suspected that I had misaligned the shaft/transmission when I reinstalled everything. Merely afterward fighting that to get it perfect a few unlike times, and with the fact that everything ran perfectly and quietly in reverse, I eventually came to doubtable that the transmission needed rebuilding. Especially since the prior owner had mentioned that he'd been inclined to supercede both the engine and transmission.

    I have downloaded a few different velvet bulldoze manuals (including the service manual) and looked through them all, also scouring the diagrams...I imagine somebody more familiar with a transmission would have been able to easily encounter the answer in front of them, just I couldn't, hence the question. In the part of the service manual that described rebuilding my reduction gear I just couldn't tell for sure whether or not I really needed to take the entire reduction gear autonomously in lodge to disconnect it from the chief gearbox. I was hoping I didn't have to exercise that, now I know that I practise.

    And just to round out the info: 28' Tollycraft with a Mercruiser 5.7 litre, the transmission is Non a V-bulldoze.

    Thanks.

  6. crwsound
    Joined: Apr 2022
    Posts: four
    Likes: 0, Points: i, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Seattle, WA

    crwsound New Member

    Hey Baeckmo, just saw your response. Every bit I mentioned, the previous owner had said he'd idea about replacing the transmission (didn't say why though), and I've got the kit of parts to do the rebuild, so I'm just going to go ahead and do the work.
    Thanks,
    Chris
  7. MikeJohns
    Joined: Aug 2004
    Posts: three,192
    Likes: 208, Points: 63, Legacy Rep: 2054
    Location: Australia

    MikeJohns Senior Fellow member

    You get those sounds often from a worn output bearing. They are a standard begetting and with the seal toll me around $30. Effort and get seals out then you can read the code on them !

    Attached is a snip from the 71c service manual

    Added [ Duh... I encounter information technology'southward already been mentioned ]

    Fastened Files:

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  8. MikeJohns
    Joined: Aug 2004
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    Location: Australia

    MikeJohns Senior Member

    I think that'southward just because it's too hard to loosen it later.
  9. crwsound
    Joined: Apr 2022
    Posts: 4
    Likes: 0, Points: 1, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Seattle, WA

    crwsound New Member

    Thanks Mike. Hither's probably a stupid question, only I'll become ahead with it.

    I've looked in the rebuild manual more than a little, and to me it seems similar in that location are output bearings in both the main gearbox and the reduction gearbox. Both y'all an Baeckmo said to check the output bearing (or in Baeckmo's case, the forrad thrust bearing)...and I don't know which of these bearings I'grand supposed to be looking at. What I Call up is that it'southward the more forward of the two "bearing cone" bearings (that's how the transmission refers to them) that's right nigh the aft end of the reduction housing. Is that correct?

  10. MikeJohns
    Joined: Aug 2004
    Posts: iii,192
    Likes: 208, Points: 63, Legacy Rep: 2054
    Location: Australia

    MikeJohns Senior Member

    The terminal output bearing one step from the reduction box output flange.
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How To Remove A Velvet Drive Transmission,

Source: https://www.boatdesign.net/threads/velvet-drive-how-to-separate-reduction-housing-from-gearbox.60807/

Posted by: mcintirepardow.blogspot.com

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